{"id":2216,"date":"2025-01-01T02:11:37","date_gmt":"2025-01-01T02:11:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/freewalkingtourcusco.org\/cusco-el-circuito-de-las-cuatro-lagunas\/"},"modified":"2025-01-11T20:26:29","modified_gmt":"2025-01-11T20:26:29","slug":"cusco-the-circuit-of-the-four-lagoons","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/freewalkingtourcusco.org\/en\/cusco-the-circuit-of-the-four-lagoons\/","title":{"rendered":"Cusco: The Circuit of the Four Lagoons"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Four Lagoons<\/strong> in the Heights of Cusco<\/a>: A royal flush of lagoons, four mirrors of water <\/strong>along a single route, in a round-trip excursion. Nature, scenic beauty, biodiversity, and the contemplation of Andean geography<\/strong> are the \u201cfour aces\u201d that will grant you a wealth of experiences, memories, and stories<\/strong> along the paths of the provinces of Acomayo and Canas.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

But a question arises: Would you dare to \u201cbet\u201d <\/strong>a day of your holiday in Peru, exploring a route that\u2019s still not popular, or would you rather secure your day in a more well-known destination? To go or not to go? That was the travel dilemma<\/strong> I had to solve when I first heard about Pomacanchi, Acopia, Asnaqocha, and Pampamarca<\/strong>, the string of lagoons that make up the circuit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You won\u2019t face that dilemma. Here, I\u2019ll tell you everything you need to know about the route<\/strong>, so you\u2019ll realize that in this \u201cbet,\u201d there\u2019s no loss. Everyone wins<\/strong>. Everyone comes out a winner\u2014from the travelers tired from previous journeys (because here, you\u2019ll walk little or not at all<\/strong>) to the adventurers seeking an intense cycling escape.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

From lagoon to lagoon, by car or on pedal power, head towards one of the most attractive circuits for observing Andean geography and nature in the Cusco region<\/a>. Take the plunge and explore it. You\u2019ll feel the serenity<\/strong> of the four water mirrors, while you breathe in the bold air of the heights<\/strong> and renew your energy<\/strong> with the warm rays of Inti, the father and god of the Incas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pomacanchi: The First Lagoon<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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My plan had only one goal: to go to Waqrapukara<\/a>, the fortress or ceremonial center perched atop a horn-shaped mountain.<\/strong> That was the reason I left Cusco early in the morning, heading towards Pomacanchi<\/strong> (in the province of Acomayo), where I would catch transportation to the community of Santa Luc\u00eda, the starting point for the hike to my archaeological destination, built by the Canchis<\/a> and Incas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Upon returning, I decided to spend the night in Pomacanchi<\/strong>. The next day, I would visit the vast lagoon that “welcomes” the village<\/strong> (at 3696 m a.s.l., and 101 km south of Cusco). Its name refers to the Andean puma (poma) and the Canchis, a pre-Inca culture <\/strong>that developed in the Andes and Altiplano. Their origins trace back to the pre-ceramic period (from 5000 to 1500 BC).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I planned to visit the lagoon<\/strong> early to take a look at its 2120 hectares of extension and then return to Cusco (approximately 2 hours 30 minutes). That was my plan, but if there\u2019s one thing you learn on the road, it\u2019s that itineraries can\u2014and should\u2014be adjusted<\/strong>, especially when you discover that there are three more lagoons nearby waiting to be explored. The city would have to wait.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yes, wait for me to finish exploring Pomacanchi<\/strong>, where there are trails, camping areas, natural pastures, and reed beds; where 11 species of endemic birds<\/strong> have been recorded, including Andean flamingos<\/a> (parihuanas); where it\u2019s possible to fish for silverside fish and practice various water activities<\/strong>. So much to do. So much to see. And to think, this is just the beginning of the circuit<\/strong>!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

An Accessible Circuit<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Four lagoons in 24 kilometres<\/strong>. That\u2019s the distance separating Pomacanchi from Pampamarca<\/strong> (3750 m a.s.l.)<\/strong>, the final water mirror of the itinerary. Between them are the other two lagoons: Acopia (3707 m a.s.l.)<\/strong> and Asnaqocha (3800 m a.s.l.)<\/strong>. All of them are located by the roadside, making it easy to visit by motor vehicle or bicycle.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you’re already in Pomacanchi, hire the services of a local taxi driver<\/strong>. Before you set off, agree on the price and service conditions (duration, waiting times, start and end points of the itinerary). The cost ranges from 80 to 120 soles<\/strong>, depending on your negotiation skills<\/strong>, the driver’s mood, the vehicle’s condition, and the number of passengers, to name a few factors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you’re leaving Cusco, take the public transport heading to Sicuani<\/strong> (departing from Wanchaq, near the closed coliseum) and get off in the village of Cusipata or at the Chuquicahuana Bridge<\/strong> (about 2 hours<\/strong>, ticket price: 15 soles, as a reference<\/strong>). In both places, you\u2019ll find shared taxis and colectivos heading to Pomacanchi <\/strong>(cost: 10 soles<\/strong>, travel time: less than an hour).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

However, the easiest way to visit the lagoons is to hire a local tour operator<\/strong>. Agencies will offer transportation and the company of a specialised guide who will explain various aspects of the route. For example, they will tell you about Tupac Amaru II<\/a> and the influence the rebel leader had in this area, as he was the chief of Pampamarca, Tungasuca, and Surimana.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Acopia: The Musical Lagoon<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Time to leave. Heading towards the second stop. The taxi moves forward, but Pomacanchi doesn\u2019t fade; it remains on the horizon.<\/strong> A travel companion, I see it through the window. Its tranquil blue waters enhance the landscape, marking much of the journey towards the small lagoon of Acopia<\/strong>, in the district of the same name (approximately 12 kilometres, 17 minutes).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We get out to admire it. A feeling of calm and freedom<\/strong>. Andean beauty, always mountainous, always inspiring. Acopia is a haven of stunning waters<\/strong> with birds fluttering around and vegetation typical of the highlands. Here, if you’re with a guide, they\u2019ll tell you about Valeriana Huillca Condori<\/strong>, the woman born in this land who inspired one of the most famous huaynos in Peru.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Valeriana, known in her village as “La Valicha<\/a>,” stirred the heart of her young teacher, Miguel \u00c1ngel Hurtado. Her parents didn\u2019t approve of the romance and sent her to Cusco. Heartbroken, Hurtado\u2014who would go on to become a renowned musician\u2014composed the melody and lyrics of a tusuy<\/em> in 1942<\/strong>, dedicated to her. In 1945, he used the same tune to create a huayno version.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

But the lyrics differ in language and content. The tusuy<\/em>, written in Spanish, highlights Valicha\u2019s beauty<\/strong>\u2014\u201cthe little flower of the land\u201d\u2014and describes the sorrow of the lover who is \u201csuffering and crying.\u201d Meanwhile, the verses of the huayno reveal the author’s heartbreak<\/strong>, as in Quechua, he claims that in Cusco, the beautiful Valeriana ground corn in the picanter\u00edas<\/em> and stole hearts in the barracks.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Asnaqocha and Pampamarca: The Last Stops<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Enough with the songs. Let\u2019s head to the third stop: Asnaqocha, or Asnacocha<\/strong>, in the district of Mosoqllacta (Acomayo province). Getting there is easy. The vehicle continues along the same road, and after about 15 minutes (9 km), you\u2019ll arrive at the “smelly lagoon<\/strong>.” Yes, that\u2019s the meaning of its name in Spanish, but don\u2019t worry\u2014you won\u2019t need a gas mask to visit it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Its \u201cpeculiar\u201d aroma comes from the action of the sun on the algae<\/strong> that grow in the waters. The smell isn\u2019t harmful<\/strong>, and it won\u2019t stop you from enjoying this destination. In fact, some travelers even camp along the shores <\/strong>of this lagoon, which spans 3.199 km\u00b2, making it the eighth largest water mirror in the upper Vilcanota or Urubamba basin, the sacred river of the Incas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s almost over, very close to the end of the circuit. Pampamarca is just 5 km away from Asnaqocha.<\/strong> The lagoon, located at the entrance to the district of the same name (Canas province), is also known as Tungasuca<\/strong>, due to its proximity to that town. The trip takes less than 10 minutes. Along the way, you\u2019ll catch different views of the beautiful, yet smelly, lagoon.\u00a0<\/strong> \u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Once in Pampamarca, you\u2019ll notice the abundance of totora<\/a> reeds on its surface, an aquatic plant with which locals craft rustic boats<\/strong>, just like in Lake Titicaca<\/strong> (Puno) and on the beaches of Huanchaco (La Libertad) and Pimentel (Lambayeque) on the northern coast of Peru. Its use is ancestral<\/strong>, dating back to the origins of Andean civilizations.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here, you\u2019ll see flamingos (parihuanas<\/em>) and wild ducks<\/strong>, among other bird species that bring Pampamarca to life. Its waters are used for both human consumption and agriculture.<\/strong> Before heading back to Cusco, take the opportunity to visit the urban centre of the “pueblo de la pampa”\u2014its name in Spanish. You\u2019ll be in for more than one surprise.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yes, it\u2019s another winning bet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Four Lagoons in the Heights of Cusco: A royal flush of lagoons, four mirrors of water along a single route, in a round-trip excursion. Nature, scenic beauty, biodiversity, and the contemplation of Andean geography are the \u201cfour aces\u201d that will grant you a wealth of experiences, memories, and stories along the paths of the provinces […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2145,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"advgb_blocks_editor_width":"","advgb_blocks_columns_visual_guide":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2216","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tourism"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCusco: The Circuit of the Four Lagoons. 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