{"id":3543,"date":"2025-12-25T12:46:23","date_gmt":"2025-12-25T12:46:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/freewalkingtourcusco.org\/?p=3543"},"modified":"2026-01-09T12:52:08","modified_gmt":"2026-01-09T12:52:08","slug":"machu-picchu-memories-of-a-train-trip","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/freewalkingtourcusco.org\/en\/machu-picchu-memories-of-a-train-trip\/","title":{"rendered":"Machu Picchu: Memories of a Train Trip"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

In the front seat, two children kept repeating the word \u201cchicharr\u00f3n\u201d<\/em> <\/strong>like a broken record. They said it with a peculiar accent \u2014 one that didn\u2019t belong to Peruvian Spanish<\/strong>, nor to any Spanish spoken anywhere in the world. Their mother burst out laughing every time she heard them. Their father, on the other hand, wasn\u2019t laughing quite as much \u2014 he had the same pronunciation troubles. He tried his best<\/strong>, but just couldn\u2019t get it right.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

More laughter \u2014 lots of it \u2014 filled the old train carriage<\/strong> as it lazily pulled away from a monumental city. Now, the mother, who was Peruvian<\/strong> and from Cusco<\/a>, turned into a language teacher: \u201cChi-cha-rr\u00f3n,\u201d she said slowly, exaggerating her lip movements. Her \u201cstudents\u201d repeated the tricky word in chorus. \u201cTerrible! I\u2019ll have to punish you,\u201d<\/strong> she scolded them affectionately.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And that\u2019s how my first journey to Aguas Calientes began \u2014 listening to the \u201cfailures\u201d in pronunciation of the children and their father, from a family that was half Peruvian and half\u2026 French? German?<\/strong> Aguas Calientes, of course, is the small town you must reach before heading up to Machu Picchu, whether on foot or by bus. Back then \u2014 more than 25 years ago \u2014 the train carriages were like the United Nations on rails<\/strong>. Travellers from all over the world shared the seats, the aisles, and every bit of free space.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The excess of passengers, the wardrobe-sized backpacks of globetrotters<\/strong>, the bundles and parcels of the locals \u2014 all mixed with the chatter in different languages, the cheerful cries of vendors selling choclo con queso (corn with cheese), and the stories in Quechua and Spanish<\/strong> told by Inca Trail<\/a> guides and porters \u2014 created a strange yet harmonious \u201cinternational conflict\u201d<\/strong> throughout the long journey.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Perhaps it\u2019s because of those friendly skirmishes that I remember that trip so fondly<\/strong> \u2014 or maybe it\u2019s just nostalgia, that feeling that everything in the past was somehow better, or at least more fun and chaotic \u2014 that makes me idealise the slow train ride I took early that morning from Cusco\u2019s San Pedro station<\/a> to fulfil one of my wandering dreams<\/strong>: exploring the greatest architectural legacy of the Incas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The disappearance of Aguas Calientes<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Everything changes. The memories of yesterday no longer match or fit with today\u2019s experiences. Perhaps the only thing that remains unaltered is the majesty of Machu Picchu<\/strong> \u2014 although getting a ticket nowadays can turn into quite a drama during the high season<\/strong> (make sure to buy them in advance<\/a>). And that\u2019s not all. These days, visitors must follow strict schedules<\/a> and designated circuits<\/a>. It wasn\u2019t like that before \u2014 you could spend the entire day there<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

More changes, more nostalgia<\/strong>. On the train, there are no longer those harmonious \u201cinternational conflicts\u201d, as several types of services now exist \u2014 from the modest local train<\/strong> to the luxurious Hiram Bingham<\/a>. Meanwhile, the name Aguas Calientes has taken refuge in the memories of seasoned travellers who \u2014out of habit or perhaps pure stubbornness\u2014 refuse to refer to the place as Machu Picchu Pueblo<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cIt\u2019s Aguas Calientes, full stop,\u201d<\/strong> they insist \u2014we insist\u2014 on the popular name that remained in use until not so long ago. It doesn\u2019t matter how many times they\u2019re told \u2014we\u2019re told\u2014 that Machu Picchu Pueblo has been the official name<\/strong> of the capital of the Machu Picchu district (in the province of Urubamba) since 1 October 1941<\/strong>, the date when Law No. 9396 was enacted.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

No law will ever change the fact that, either before or after your adventure \u2014or if you prefer, both before and after\u2014 you\u2019ll have the chance to unwind in the hot springs of a town born alongside the railway<\/strong>. The same railway that began construction in the early decades of the 20th century<\/strong>. The same train where I once heard some children say \u201cchi cha rr\u00f3n.\u201d The same train that will take you close to one of the seven wonders of the modern world<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From railway camp to world-famous tourist destination<\/strong> \u2014 an unexpected transformation that began to take shape, without anyone knowing or imagining it, on 24 July 1911, when Hiram Bingham<\/a> was guided by a young boy named Pablito Riccharte to an unknown pre-Hispanic city hidden among Cusco\u2019s green mountains<\/a>. An archaeological treasure that the American explorer would go on to share with the five continents.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Several trains to the same destination<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The presentation of Machu Picchu in National Geographic magazine<\/strong> (April 1913 edition) sparked the interest of researchers and travellers in this newly revealed archaeological gem. The desire to visit the llaqta, built in the 15th century by order of the Inca Pachacutec<\/strong>, remains alive to this day. Most visitors reach their longed-for destination via a railway built to connect the Andes with the edge of the jungl<\/strong>e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

From Cusco to the Santa Ana estate farm<\/strong> (Quillabamba, La Convenci\u00f3n province) \u2014 that was the plan and the project promoted by Congressman Benjam\u00edn de la Torre in 1907. Government neglect and bureaucratic sluggishness delayed the start of construction until 1914<\/strong>. By 1928, the rails and sleepers had reached Aguas Calientes<\/strong>. Then came new problems, more delays. Work towards the jungle<\/a> resumed in 1950.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

At this point, you might be wondering whether the works were ever completed or left unfinished<\/strong>. The answer is yes \u2014 they were completed. In 1978, after a long \u201cjourney\u201d of 71 years, the Cusco\u2013Quillabamba<\/strong> service was inaugurated. But this story doesn\u2019t have a happy ending. In 1998, a huayco (landslide) caused the suspension of both freight and passenger services \u2014 a suspension that remains in place to this day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The situation is completely different on the stretch to Machu Picchu Pueblo. The route is operated by two companies \u2014 PeruRail<\/a> and Inca Rail<\/a>, \u2014 both offering a range of schedules and service types<\/strong>. Departures and arrivals take place at several stations, the most popular being Ollantaytambo <\/strong>(1 hour 30 minutes away). Prices range from 20 soles<\/strong> (local train, for Peruvians only) to 500 US dollars<\/strong> (one way on the Hiram Bingham).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Between the modest local train and the luxury of the Bingham, there are several appealing options<\/strong>: Expedition (US$57), Vistadome (US$91) and Vistadome Observatory (US$114) with PeruRail; and The Voyager (US$57), The Prime (US$91) and The 360 (US$98) with Inca Rail. The prices mentioned are based on Ollantaytambo as the departure station (about 1 hour 20 minutes from Cusco by road<\/strong>).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A dream come true<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Back on the train of memories<\/strong>. The children are finally defeated by the constant rocking of the carriages. They rest while their parents gaze out at the scenery<\/strong> unfolding beyond the windows \u2014 beautiful and ever-changing. The imposing mountains, the flow of the Urubamba (or Vilcanota) River, the green farmland and the rustic charm of rural houses all help make the four-hour journey<\/strong> more striking and more pleasant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That\u2019s how long it takes for the train to travel \u201cfull steam ahead\u201d from Cusco<\/a> (3,400 m a.s.l.) to Machu Picchu Pueblo (2,040 m a.s.l.). The line stretches for 112 kilometres<\/strong> \u2014 narrow, winding, with plenty of bends and zigzags<\/strong>. The speed varies between 30 and 45 km per hour. Slow but steady \u2014 that\u2019s the motto of the diesel or diesel-electric locomotives that lead the train convoys.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Patience \u2014 it\u2019s just four more hours when you\u2019re about to fulfil a lifelong dream<\/strong>. Ever since I was a child, I had wanted to visit Machu Picchu<\/a>, a place so admired around the world that many who\u2019ve heard of it couldn\u2019t say for sure which country it\u2019s in<\/strong>. The Old Mountain \u2014 that\u2019s what its name means in Spanish \u2014 is more famous than Peru itself.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

It is our icon, our symbol, our wonder \u2014 the marvel<\/strong> that inspired Nobel Prize winner Pablo Neruda<\/a> to write these words: \u201cAfter seeing the ruins of Machu Picchu, the fabulous cultures of antiquity seemed to be made of papier-m\u00e2ch\u00e9.\u201d So how could I not feel excited<\/strong> and full of anticipation on my first journey to a human creation that seems almost divine in origin<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The train gives its final whistle. The children wake up<\/strong>. Their parents take them by the hand. A brief moment of chaos \u2014 the end of harmony. Everyone wants to get off first.<\/strong> Perhaps it\u2019s the eagerness to begin the final stretch to the llaqta<\/em>? I don\u2019t know. I don\u2019t want to know. My only aim is to stay alert, to remember everything.<\/strong> And I\u2019m glad I did \u2014 because that\u2019s how I can tell you this story more than 25 years later.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In the front seat, two children kept repeating the word \u201cchicharr\u00f3n\u201d like a broken record. They said it with a peculiar accent \u2014 one that didn\u2019t belong to Peruvian Spanish, nor to any Spanish spoken anywhere in the world. Their mother burst out laughing every time she heard them. Their father, on the other hand, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3314,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"advgb_blocks_editor_width":"","advgb_blocks_columns_visual_guide":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3543","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tourism"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nMachu Picchu: Memories of a Train Journey - Adventure on Rails<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Machu Picchu: Memories of a train journey through Cusco. 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