{"id":4005,"date":"2026-02-25T13:12:31","date_gmt":"2026-02-25T13:12:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/freewalkingtourcusco.org\/?p=4005"},"modified":"2026-02-26T14:42:04","modified_gmt":"2026-02-26T14:42:04","slug":"cusco-travel-and-romantic-disappointments","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/freewalkingtourcusco.org\/en\/cusco-travel-and-romantic-disappointments\/","title":{"rendered":"Cusco: Travel and romantic disappointments"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The first time I travelled to Cusco<\/a>, I did it for love. It wasn\u2019t a love for Andean culture<\/strong> or for its extraordinary archaeological legacy. Nor was I driven by an overwhelming passion<\/strong> for grand adventures along mountain trails.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That early morning journey was guided by the beating of my heart and the longing to see her again \u2014 yes, her \u2014 who had moved to the \u201cHistoric Capital of Peru<\/a>.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Cusco:<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

And, as so often happens with first times, that brief weekend escape was unforgettable<\/strong> \u2014 though not for the reasons that stir the longing of most travellers who visit the \u201cImperial City\u201d. In my memories, there are no visions of Saqsaywaman<\/strong>, Ollantaytambo or Pisac\u2026 not even of Machu Picchu<\/a>. Only a handful of recollections of the Plaza de Armas, San Blas<\/a> and the Qoricancha.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All because of that long-awaited reunion that turned into a nightmare. My heart was broken in the legendary capital of the Incas<\/strong>. Back home, time slowly stitched up the open wounds<\/strong>, and what at first felt like resentment towards Peru\u2019s leading destination gradually transformed into a desire for redemption \u2014 and a touch of revenge. I had to return, but this time for the right reasons<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The city was not to blame.<\/strong> It had merely been the chance setting for an unexpected ending. There was no valid reason for resentment \u2014 quite the opposite. I needed, urgently, to return with the intention of falling in love with its streets and squares<\/strong>, its villages and valleys, its llaqtas<\/em> and pre-Hispanic fortresses<\/a>, its Catholic churches and its temples to the sun and the moon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

On my return, I would discover that the Spanish chroniclers had not exaggerated when they praised the grandeur and monumentality of the Inca capital<\/strong>. I would also come to believe that destinations deserve a second chance<\/strong>, and I would decree that \u201cI\u2019ll never return\u201d would no longer be part of my wandering philosophy. After all, no place should be forever marked by a single bad experience or an isolated mishap<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Reconciled with Cusco<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I realise it may seem rather unusual to share a heartbreak in a piece of travel writing<\/strong>. Don\u2019t worry \u2014 I\u2019m not about to turn this into a sort of clinic for bruised hearts on the road<\/strong>. That\u2019s not my intention\u2026 unless you feel like telling me about your own travel sorrows<\/strong>. Only joking! It\u2019s simply my way of showing you that I\u2019m neither sad nor lost in nostalgia.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

What I truly want to make clear is this: just as we often give love a second chance<\/strong>, it\u2019s neither foolish nor mistaken to return to a place where we once had a bad experience<\/strong>. By the same token, there\u2019s no need to feel discouraged if other travellers didn\u2019t have the best time. Every journey is unique<\/strong>, and what happened to someone else won\u2019t necessarily happen to you.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That applies to both the good and the bad<\/strong>. Experiences, feelings and moments don\u2019t replicate themselves. Each of us enjoys a destination in our own way<\/strong>, guided by our interests and sensibilities. This isn\u2019t about dismissing the advice and recommendations<\/a> of fellow travellers \u2014 quite the opposite. Their insights are worth considering, but always with the understanding that every journey is entirely your own<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

If someone suffered from altitude sickness, had a bad reaction to the food<\/strong>, got stranded on the road or didn\u2019t enjoy a particular circuit, it doesn\u2019t mean the same will happen to every traveller. On the other hand, if you experienced something unpleasant<\/strong> in a certain destination, don\u2019t write it off completely. Give yourself time and offer it another chance. When it comes to travel \u2014 unlike in the cinema \u2014 sequels are often good<\/strong>\u2026 sometimes even brilliant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I know this from experience. I returned to Cusco despite my broken heart<\/strong>, and there I discovered that my adventurous steps gradually erased the sad memories. That was my first act of redemption<\/strong> \u2014 but not the only one. There were others, many others, because I learned that \u201cbad moments\u201d \u2014 our own and those of others \u2014 are warnings and lessons that help us avoid mistakes and minimise setbacks<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The blockade of the coca growers<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Photo: Agencia Peruana de Noticias Andina<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The cocaleros<\/em> (coca farmers) had blocked the road<\/strong>. They were protesting against the low prices paid for the sacred coca leaves of the Incas<\/a>, which are legally traded. Their action prevented me from reaching Quillabamba, the capital of La Convenci\u00f3n province in Cusco<\/strong>. The days went by. My impatience grew. If the conflict wasn\u2019t resolved soon, I would have to return home without completing my itinerary<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cDon\u2019t take the risk. Better to wait,\u201d advised the receptionist at my guesthouse in Cusco. \u201cThere\u2019s no passage, and everything is closed over there<\/strong>,\u201d the transport operators told me \u2014 the same ones who travel back and forth from the \u201cnavel of the world\u201d to the \u201cpampa <\/em>(plain) of the moon\u201d<\/strong>. Their vehicles depart from Avenida Lorena, in the Santiago district, and the journey takes around five hours<\/strong>. Ticket prices usually range between 35 and 50 sole<\/strong>s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yes, the \u201cpampa of the moon\u201d \u2014 because in Quechua, quilla<\/em> means moon and bamba<\/em> or pampa<\/em> means plain<\/strong>. But I wasn\u2019t heading to that lush green city to learn Quechua. My plan was to continue on to the community of Ivochote<\/strong> (a further five hours by road), with the aim of crossing the Pongo de Mainique<\/a> \u2014 the dramatic river gateway that links the towering Andes with the lowland<\/strong> Amazon rainforest.<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Photo<\/em>: Agencia Peruana de Noticias Andina<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Acci\u00f3n, adrenalina y naturaleza en su m\u00e1xima pureza en un ca\u00f1\u00f3n de 3 km de largo y tan solo 45 metros de ancho<\/strong>. Sus r\u00e1pidos, sus ca\u00eddas de agua, sus acantilados cubiertos de verdor que superan los mil metros de altura, lo convierten en un aut\u00e9ntico desaf\u00edo fluvial<\/strong>. Solo los navegantes expertos y los viajeros m\u00e1s osados se atreven a surcar las aguas brav\u00edas de este sector del r\u00edo Urubamba<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Quise ser uno de ellos, pero el paro se prolong\u00f3. Mis planes se frustraron. Desde entonces, el pongo es un destino pendiente<\/strong> que ans\u00edo explorar este a\u00f1o, entre abril y noviembre (los mejores meses para cruzarlo). Es tiempo de revancha. Es tiempo de conocer el Santuario Nacional de Megantoni<\/a> (Mainique est\u00e1 dentro de esta \u00e1rea protegida) y uno de los lugares sagrados del ancestral pueblo matsigenka<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Action, adrenaline and nature at their purest \u2014 all within a canyon three kilometres long and barely 45 metres wide<\/strong>. Its rapids, waterfalls and sheer green-cloaked cliffs rising more than a thousand metres high make it a true riverine challenge<\/strong>. Only experienced navigators and the boldest travellers dare to venture into the turbulent waters of this stretch of the Urubamba River.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I wanted to be one of them, but the strike dragged on. My plans were thwarted. Since then, the pongo has remained an unfinished dream<\/strong> \u2014 a destination I long to explore this year, between April and November (the best months to cross it). It\u2019s time for redemption. It\u2019s time to discover the Santuario Nacional de Megantoni<\/a> \u2014 where Mainique lies within its protected boundaries \u2014 and one of the sacred places of the ancestral Matsigenka<\/a> people.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lookout pont of Tres Cruces de Oro<\/em><\/strong><\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Another journey, another longed-for place in Cusco<\/a>: Tres Cruces de Oro, a natural viewpoint<\/strong> in the province of Paucartambo. Another destination I will never forget<\/strong> \u2014 though, once again, not for the right reasons. My excursion fell far short of expectations, but not because of an unrequited love or the protests of the combative <\/strong>coca growers of La Convenci\u00f3n.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This time, the blame lay with the horizon<\/strong>, the mist, the sun \u2014 perhaps even the moon. They all conspired to ensure that my experience at the lookout was not what it truly can be. Setting off before dawn from <\/strong>Paucartambo<\/a> (2,906 metres above sea level) proved futile<\/strong>. This Andean colonial town, 105 kilometres from Cusco<\/strong>, prays, sings and dances from 16 to 19 July in honour of its beloved Mamacha, the Virgen del Carmen<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nor was my stoic wait for daybreak at 3,700 metres rewarded. I wasn\u2019t alone \u2014 several of us endured the bone-piercing cold in the hope<\/strong> of witnessing the \u201cwhite ray\u201d, a curious optical phenomenon that creates a visual distortion, making three suns appear \u201cmagically\u201d on the horizon<\/strong>. It occurs most notably between 20 and 22 June, during the winter solstice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Photo: Luis Miranda\u00b4s blog<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

That\u2019s what they say. That\u2019s what I didn\u2019t see on that particular morning at the \u201cBalcony of the East<\/strong>\u201d, as this viewpoint \u2014 located 45 kilometres from Paucartambo<\/strong> (about a 90-minute climb by road) \u2014 is also known. The three suns never appeared in a sky<\/strong> that slowly shook off the shadows of night, revealing \u2014 between intense glimmers of light \u2014 the forested expanse of Parque Nacional del Manu<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I won\u2019t lie to you: it was a beautiful sunrise, just not the one I had hoped fo<\/strong>r. Bad luck! Travel is never perfec<\/strong>t. There will always be unforeseen setbacks, disappointments and bitter moments that disrupt our plans<\/strong>. But that\u2019s all right \u2014 we simply have to persist and set off again, once or even several times, towards those unfinished destinations and the places we couldn\u2019t fully enjoy for one reason or another.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

That\u2019s the nature of the road \u2014 and precisely why we love it. Isn\u2019t it?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The first time I travelled to Cusco, I did it for love. It wasn\u2019t a love for Andean culture or for its extraordinary archaeological legacy. Nor was I driven by an overwhelming passion for grand adventures along mountain trails. That early morning journey was guided by the beating of my heart and the longing to […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3972,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"advgb_blocks_editor_width":"","advgb_blocks_columns_visual_guide":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4005","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-tourism"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCusco: Travel and Romantic Disappointments: The Reconciliation<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Cusco: Travel and romantic disappointments. Don't be discouraged if your trip wasn't perfect. 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